Blood and Coca

I´ve just been reading on the BBC website about the renaissance of the Shining Path rebels in the area of the Apurimac River. On our travels there, Americo told me that the area had always been one for resistance or terrorism since Inca times when the local people held out against Inca domination. The trend persists and is commemorated in a popular song which begs the River for a safe crossing in order to get away from those seeking to kill the singer. Luckily for us, our journey was tranquil and we were able to admire the wonderful scenery and the strength of the river without fear. Our only attackers were the mosquitoes which drew plenty of my blood and left me itching for days. One bite was particularly bothersome and the swelling so bad that Americo drew on his knowledge of medicinal plants to provide healing. I´m not sure what the plant was, but he mashed it in lemon juice applied it and bandaged my hand with loo roll! In 2 days all was fine.

There are 3 things to carry always -- loo roll, a flashlight and a knife. The latter was something I did not have but once back in Cusco, I came across a man in the street near San Francisco with an array of knives for sale. There were viscious looking flick knives, knives shaped like guns and a Swiss Army Knife which I bought for 18 soles. It´s got a good blade for peeling fruit and the corkscrew already came in handy to open a bottle of wine at my cleansing ceremony with the Qéro.

The Rio Apurimac was running fast and carrying so much earth that it was a deep rich reddish colour. W stayed overnight in a pretty basic Hospedaje and were up at 6am next day to drive down a steep dirt road to the thermal baths at Cconoc, hoping to avoid too many mozzies by bathing before the sun got over the mountain top. We had a wonderful drive down to the pools all the way sending up flocks of green parrots. The setting is fantastic, alongside the fast flowing river and surrounded by serried ranks of mountainpeaks behind which lie the Inca cities of Choquequirao and MacchuPicchu. The medicinal waters are absolutely crystal clear and only luke warm. Apparently they used to be hotter and it´s a mystery why they have lost heat. We immersed for about an hour and left as the sun and mosquitoes arrived. Later we bought fresh tropical fruits from wayside stalls and breakfasted ´like parrots´.

During my travels I´ve had 2 readings of the coca leaves. In October I was sick on the day Miguelito did readings for the group at Salka Wasi but this time all was well and he read for me. I also had a reading from Pasqualito as part of my cleansing ceremony. Re-assuringly, both readings were very similar -- my luck is good, my path clear and I will definitely be coming back to Peru. Both readings had the possibility of bringing another group. In both there was a warning that I tend to want things too quickly, to try and push the river, and this speedy energy is not good for me. Be tranquil and allow all things to develop in their own good time. Now, how many times have I heard this and not taken it on board?!! From Pasqualito came reassurance that my onward journey to Bolivia would be good and though he saw some fear in me, the ceremony would remove it. In fact, since the cleansing everything has opened up and I was able to take the decision to go next Tuesday. As Americo says, once you are strong and decisive the Universe supports you. Like magic, I had emails from a hotel in Copacabana confirming a room there and news from Diana in La Paz saying she would meet me and help with accommodation. All feels good and I´m ready for the next adventure.